Hello, it’s been a very long time since I posted on here & so much has happened to us all in this time. I’ll make a start with Sevilles & Damsons, with something familiar in such uncertain times, even if it’s just the sound of the words. Citrus season though is just about to start and soon Sevilles will be back in the shops & as always we have to be quick off the mark as it is a short season. There’s some really really good news too. Absolutely Preserves will now be sold at the newly opened Durslade Farm Shop which is situated at Hauser & Wirth, Somerset on the outskirts of #Bruton and soon to be online too.
It’s an exciting opportunity as I will be making preserves in collaboration with Durslade Farm shop and also selling Absolutely Preserves. A double whammy. For the opening of the shop I made a preserve which uses damsons from Durslade’s walled garden and from damsons picked from a lovely garden in Somerton. The two resulting preserves could not be more different; flavour, colour, consistency and also setting times. Somerton is robust & darkly fruity whereas Durslade has a zing & a high top rose red citrus ring. They are baritone and soprano & you may well want both in your life whether to help start the day or as a little snack before a long walk. They are also very useful in the kitchen as savoury & sweet accomplices and especially in baking.
Recently I bought the book Orange Appeal: Savoury & Sweet by Jamie Schler. Dan Lepard had recommended it on Twitter and it takes so little encouragement to buy another cookery book especially one which focuses on citrus. The very first thing I cooked was the Rye Spice Cake with Marmalade Whipped Cream & Orange Glaze. Citrus & ice cream were not new to me but marmalade with whipped cream #omg that had to be tried. I used the Seville & Somerton damson preserve because of its dark colour & richness which lent itself especially well to the glaze to which I also added some Damson liqueur to. Honestly it tasted like Ximénez, a sloe liqueur would work equally well. The other fantastic news is that Jamie Schler agreed to let me include her recipe on the blog and here it is. (please see end of post for the scanned version of the recipe).
Rye Spice Cake with Marmalade Whipped Cream & Orange Glaze
THIS SUBLIME AND UNUSUAL cake topped with caramel and mountains of marmalade whipped cream is a special treat. The lightly sweetened, orangey whipped cream is the perfect accompaniment to the delicate, earthy spiced rye cake and balances beautifully with the barely bitter edge of the glaze. Makes 1 (8 ½-inch/22 cm) round cake
Orange Marmalade Whipped Cream
- 4 tablespoons cold water
- 1 teaspoon unflavoured powdered gelatine
- 1 cup ( 250 ml) heavy whipping cream,chilled
- 1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar
- 2 tablespoons orange marmalade
Prepare this whipped cream the day before baking and serving the cake, allowing it to chill and firm in the refrigerator. The addition of gelatin helps stabilise the whipped cream, giving it body and lightness as well as allowing it to last for 2 days in the refrigerator. Use a marmalade that is more jelly than rind.
Chill a mixing bowl and beaters in the refrigerator. Spoon the water into a small saucepan and sprinkle the gelatin over the water. Let the gelatin soften for 5 minutes. Place the saucepan on very low heat and heat gently for 4 minutes, never letting the water come to a boil, stirring and swirling the pan as needed, until the gelatin has dissolved. Remove from the heat and let cool for several minutes.
Pour the cream into the chilled bowl and beat until soft peaks form. Add the sugar and continue beating until the beaters leave a visible traces in the cream. Add the gelatin water in a slow steady stream, poured down the side of the bowl, as you go continue beating on medium-high speed until the cream is thick. Beat in the marmalade 1 tablespoon at a time. Chill the cream in the refrigerator until firm, several hours or overnight. Pile on top of the cake or pass round in a serving bowl.
- Rye Spice Cake makes 1 (8 ½ inch/22cm) round cake.
- 8 tablespoons (4ounces/120g) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature, plus more to prepare pan.
- ¾ cup ( 5 ½ ounces/155g) dark brown sugar
- 1 Orange finely zested
- 2 large eggs
- ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 cup (5 ounces/ 135g) all purpose or cake flour
- 1 cup (scant 4 ½ ounces/130g) light or white rye flour
- 1 teaspoon gingerbread spice
- ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon ground ginger
- ½ teaspoon ground anise seed
- ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
- ¼ teaspoon ground allspice
- 1 teaspoon Orange Powder (optional)
- See below under Homemade Orange Flavourings
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- ½ teaspoon baking soda
- 1 teaspoon salt
- ½ cup (125 ml) milk
- ¼ (65ml) Orange juice
- ORANGE GLAZE
- ¼ cup (1.8 ounces/50g) dark brown sugar
- 1 small Orange, juiced, about ¼ cup (65ml)
- 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier or Cointreau, optional
Rye Spice Cake
The rye flour used lis neither a strong nor a dark rye, rather it is a light or white, soft rye with seven percent protein; don’t substitute another flour for this as the rye does impart a distinct, if subtle, rye flavour to the cake. The addition of the gingerbread spice simply reinforces the flavours of the individual spices, but don’t hesitate to replace it with an additional ¼ teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon ground ginger, ⅛ teaspoon allspice,⅛ teaspoon nutmeg, and ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F (170 degrees C). Butter the bottom and sides of an 8 ½ or 9 inch (22 or 23 cm) springform pan and line the bottom with parchment paper. In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter, brown sugar, and zest together until blended and creamy. Beat in the eggs, 1 at a time, adding the vanilla with the second egg, just until blended, scraping down the bowl as needed. In a separate bowl, whisk the flours, spices, Orange powder, if using, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Beat the dry ingredients into the batter in 3 additions alternating with the milk and then the orange juice, beginning and ending with the dry, and beating after each addition just until blended, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until set in the centre. The cake should only start to pull away from the sides of the pan as it is taken out of the oven. Cool the cake for 10 minutes in the pan before sliding the blade of a knife around the edge to loosen the cake, carefully opening and removing the outside ring and sliding the cake off the parchment paper onto a cooling rack. Allow to cool completely before glazing and topping with the Orange Marmalade Whipped Cream.
Place all of the ingredients in a small saucepan and cook at a low rolling boil over low heat, whisking constantly, for 10 minutes until syrupy. Remove from heat to cool. Once the syrup has cooled and thickened slightly, drizzle or brush over the cake before serving.
I hope you enjoy the cake, I customised mine by making the gingerbread spice a mix of ground cardamom, a few caraway seeds, 2 x glacé ginger pieces very finely cut & a little of the syrup & some more ground ginger. The Orange Powder mentioned in the recipe for the cake is as follows.
Homemade Orange Flavourings
Orange Powder: Use orange powder like a spice, adding a teaspoon or tablespoon to cake or muffin batter, cookie, scone, pie crust and bread dough, and when making macaron shells. Stir in soups, stews, sauces and marinades, dust on oatmeal or ice-cream, and toss into buttered popcorn. Add it to your seasoned flour or spice rubs for meats, chicken, fish, and seafood, or spoon a bit into court bouillon. Blend orange powder with sugar and salt for baking or cooking for a wonderful citrus flavour. Orange Powder infuses almost anything with a concentrated burst of orange flavour.
To make Orange Powder, preheat oven to 195 degrees F (90 degrees C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Trim off the top and bottom of the orange, about ½ an inch so you can see the fruit. Slice the fruit, peel and all, as thinly as possible using either a very sharp knife or a mandolin. Spread the orange slices in a single layer on the baking sheet. Bake until dried, about 4 hours, turning the slices over every 30 minutes for even drying. The slices are done when both the rind and the fruit centre are crisp and brittle but not burned. Remove from the oven and lift the orange slices off the parchment and onto cooling racks. Allow to cool completely before placing in a spice blender, a coffee grinder, or a mortar and pestle and whizzing until reduced to a fine powder. One medium orange reduces to about 5 tablespoons powder. Orange Powder will keep its fragrance and intense orange flavour for about a month if stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container.
A guide to Seasonal Citrus Preserves for sale at Durslade Farm Shop #Bruton #Somerset
Absolutely Seville Marmalade infused with Russian Peppermint. This is a beautifully bright classic Seville Marmalade. Its peel provides a bitterness while the delicately scented jelly, like amber suspends the tiny peppermint leaves. It’s an everyday marmalade & if you have friends who love tea it would make a lovely gift.
Castle pudding or baked sponge is ideal for marmalades, setting the richness of the sponge with a fruity bitterness. It’s ideal for friends who don’t like overly sweet puddings & you can of course put a different marmalade in each individual pot 😊
Absolutely Seville & Somerton Damson Preserve is a mix of classic Seville marmalade with the addition of dark fruity local damsons.
Orange & Damson Preserve The Damsons from the Durslade walled garden give this preserve its rose red colour & plum richness. Both Seville & Damson preserves are great in savoury dishes, below the smoked duck salad has a vinaigrette dressing using the Durslade Damson preserve.
Bergamot Lime & Lemon Marmalade below is a whirlwind, high top lime & sour lemon with a base line of scented smoke. Two peels, bergamot & lemon keep the taste buds guessing. There was little time to make this but experience cooking with Bergamot helped. An important part of experience however seems that ideas often don’t work and it’s in process of re working them that things are learnt. Even then time runs out or patience & it’s put down, only to be picked up again at a later date, to be tried again. Luckily this time it worked & it’s this kind of funny poetry, things going right being oppositely very much bound up with things going awry, which keeps me going. Gives me another thread or trail to follow . Leads me into 2021 tentatively yes but with a glimmer of hope. I’ll have been making preserves on & off for 10 years in 2021, so yes a proud moment: to have kept going & produced new & delicious preserves and to now be a part of Durslade Farm Shop.
Tangerine with Ximénez Sherry. Up until now I have never cooked tangerines. It was a quite a challenge as they have a rawness which even after a long period of cooking remains. It’s almost defiant which I quite like. I had very little time to experiment but felt that Pedro would be the “cooked” to their “raw”. And sure enough Tangerine & Ximénez is sparky -Citrus- fruity with an underpin of raisin & date & sweet alcohol mellowness. There were only a handful made, so enjoy. I can’t wait to try tangerines with all kinds of flora throughout the year in my search for seasonal citrus preserves. And I’d just like to mention & thank Pam Corbin, Wendy from Fruition Preserves & Clare of Clare’s Preserves for their advice and help and generosity. Buon Natale a tutti xx
The World’s Original Marmalade Awards #Dalemain #LakeDistrict #Fortnum&Mason Hauser &Wirth Somerset For more information on Durslade Farm Shop’s incredibly stylish hand printed labels please see Letterpress based in Bruton.
PS Here’s the scanned version of the cake recipe: I decided to type it out as I thought it was easier to read. I have checked it twice but if you prefer here’s the original.